Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Mountaineering Trip to the PNW, Part 1: The Backstory

As someone who has gone longer and bigger with my hikes over the past few years, a mountaineering expedition still loomed above as an intangible concept.  Well, I suppose that all changed over this winter when in September my buddy Noah from Baxter SP trail crew told me to come climb Mount Hood in February.  I was reluctant as it seemed like a logistic nightmare, especially with a full time job acquired after finishing my 2015 road trip.  I agreed that I would climb Mt. Hood at some point in the future, but with no timestamp to speak of.

Nearly a month later, after tossing the idea around for awhile, I decided I was going to do it. Logistics could be figured out, but Mount Hood was something I wanted in my life, and what better a time than in February, when cabin fever is going strong? On October 16, 2015, I messaged Noah:

"I've had enough of this life.  I've decided I am coming out to Oregon as per your request.  Which week in February would you like?"

It was a change in mentality for me, as I rejected the idea that it was something outside my reach.  I had climbed over 12k before, and I would have time and funds to buy and test out additional climbing gear over the winter.  They say the white mountains are a great place to train for much larger climbs, at least in regards to the ferocious weather.

Mt. Hood
Over the next month or so, I got mountaineering boots and crampons to accompany my ice axe and leash I had gotten last year.  I went with La Sportiva Nepal Evos, which have many good reviews amongst climbers, and because of the stiff sole, can accommodate step-in crampons and make crampon techniques less tiring during a climb.  As for crampons, I went with Black Diamond, a reputable brand in this segment.  I had a good idea of Black Diamond's quality from my ice axe so far, and I felt sound in my decision to stay with the brand.

La Sportiva Nepal Evo boots!
Black Diamond Sabertooth Pro crampons
It was awhile before I was able to try out any of this gear because the winter began so mildly and with hardly any snow.  Finally, in December I was able to test out gear in western Maine.  Baldpate Mountain and Old Speck were the first mountains to get the thorough test of my gear, and they performed beyond expectations.  The stiff boots are quite strange to walk in until you get used to them.  Over time, I've noticed that the ankle softens up a bit, which is more comfortable yet still provides the support needed for climbing steep slopes.

Over the winter hiking season prior to leaving for Oregon, I got in about 40 miles of testing and training in with my boots and crampons.  They make SUCH a difference compared to my Merrell Moabs, which I have hiked in almost exclusively so far, even in the winter season.  Normally, I am not a fan of boots for hiking, however with these boots as part of my gear, winter climbs are much more enjoyable, and they take my capabilities up a notch with the crampons.

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